Little Frog

Free crochet pattern for a Little Frog by Elena Cherchik @echerchik.

With this tutorial you can crochet a little frog. Any velvet, acrylic, cotton, or cotton blend yarn will work for this amigurumi project, together with a suitable crochet hook.

Materials and Tools

• Yarn: green, dark gray, and white
• Crochet hook
• Red thread for embroidering the smile
• Toy stuffing
• Discs, cotter pins
• Wire
• Stitch markers
• Needle for sewing parts together
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR - magic ring
• ch - chain stitch
• sc - single crochet
• inc - increase
• dec - decrease
• (...) x n - repeat n times

Crochet Amigurumi Little Frog Pattern

First Arm

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR
Rnds 2-4: 6 sc (3 rounds)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a fairly long tail. You can use it later to close the gaps between the fingers, as I will show in the live stream. Stuff more firmly if needed; I did not.

Important! On the 4th finger, do not cut the yarn. Continue crocheting with the same strand.

Rnd 5: Work 3 sc on the finger that still has the working yarn. Attach the second finger and work 3 sc on it. Attach the third finger and work all 6 sc around it. Continue along the second finger for 3 sc, then work 3 sc on the finger where you started crocheting (18)

Rnd 6: Work straight: 19 sc, move the marker by 1 sc; you still have 18 sts in the round
Rnd 7: Place the remaining finger against your work and insert the hook through both a stitch of the finger and a stitch of the hand. Work 1 sc through both layers. Repeat this 2 more times, then work 15 sc around the arm (18)
Rnd 8: 3 sc, working along the finger (the stitches from the hand will stay inside the work; do not crochet them), then work 15 sc around the hand (18)

If this is too difficult, you can simply crochet rounds 7 and 8 as straight rounds without shifting stitches, then sew the remaining finger to the arm after the arm is finished.

Rnd 9: dec, 5 sc, dec x 2, 5 sc, dec (14)
Rnd 10: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
Rnd 11: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)
Rnds 12-13: 10 sc
Rnd 14: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12)
Rnds 15-16: 12 sc
Rnd 17: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)
Rnds 18-26: 14 sc (9 rounds)

Fasten off, cut the yarn, and hide the tail inside the arm. Add a little stuffing to the arm and leave it open. The second arm is crocheted a little differently!

Second Arm

We almost repeat the first arm, with a few small changes.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR
Rnds 2-4: 6 sc

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a tail.

Important! On the 4th finger, do not cut the yarn. Continue crocheting with the same strand.

Rnd 5: Work 3 sc on the finger that still has the working yarn. Attach the second finger and work 3 sc on it. Attach the third finger and work all 6 sc around it. Continue along the second finger for 3 sc, then work 3 sc on the finger where you started crocheting (18)
Rnd 6: Work straight: 17 sc, move the marker by 1 sc; the stitch count in the round does not change!
Rnd 7: 15 sc, place the remaining finger against your work, and insert the hook through both an sc stitch of the finger and a stitch of the hand. Work 1 sc through both layers. Repeat this 2 more times (18)
Rnd 8: 15 sc, 3 sc worked along the finger (the stitches from the hand will stay inside the work; do not crochet them) (18)

Continue crocheting everything the same way as for the first arm.

There will be gaps between the fingers. Use the long tails from the fingers to sew those gaps closed.

Legs and Body

Both legs are crocheted the same way.

Rnd 1: chain 9 ch
Rnd 2: 7 sc, 3 sc in the last stitch, continue along the other side of the chain: 6 sc, inc (18)
Rnd 3: inc, 6 sc, inc x 3, 6 sc, inc x 2 (24)
Rnds 4-6: 24 sc
Rnd 7: 6 sc, dec x 6, 6 sc (18)
Rnd 8: 4 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 4 sc (16)
Rnd 9: (2 sc, dec) x 4 (12)
Rnds 10-12: 12 sc
Rnd 13: 3 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc (14)
Rnds 14-15: 14 sc
Rnd 16: (6 sc, inc) x 2 (16)
Rnds 17-22: 16 sc

Work 1 sc to shift the crochet position, then fasten off and cut the yarn. Crochet the second leg the same way. When you reach this point on the second leg, join the frog's legs. Do not cut the yarn on the second leg; continue crocheting with it. When joining the legs, make sure the toes point inward. Stuff the body gradually as you work.

Rnd 23: 8 sc on one leg, chain 5 ch, 16 sc around the second leg (here we start as if from the middle of the work; the place where we stopped crocheting will end up opposite), 5 sc along the chain, 8 sc on the same leg you started joining from (42)
Rnds 24-25: 42 sc
Rnd 26: (19 sc, dec) x 2 (40)
Rnd 27: 40 sc
Rnd 28: (18 sc, dec) x 2 (38)
Rnd 29: 38 sc - work 1 sc to shift the crochet position. The total stitch count in the round does not change.
Rnd 30: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)
Rnd 31: 36 sc
Rnd 32: (16 sc, dec) x 2 (34)
Rnd 33: 34 sc - 1 sc to shift
Rnd 34: (15 sc, dec) x 2 (32)
Rnds 35-36: 32 sc - 1 sc to shift
Rnd 37: (14 sc, dec) x 2 (30)
Rnd 38: 30 sc
Rnd 39: (13 sc, dec) x 2 (28)
Rnd 40: 28 sc
Rnd 41: (12 sc, dec) x 2 (26) - 1 sc to shift the crochet position
Rnd 42: 26 sc
Rnd 43: (11 sc, dec) x 2 (24)
Rnd 44: 24 sc
Rnd 45: (10 sc, dec) x 2 (22)
Rnd 46: 22 sc

Undo the work by 1 sc. This means round 46 is left 1 sc short, but the stitch count in the round does not change. This is needed so the arms sit evenly on the sides. If the body has shifted quite a lot while you were crocheting and the arms do not sit evenly on the sides, make as many shifting stitches as you need in either direction. Add stitches forward if needed, or undo a little. The most important thing is for the arms to sit evenly along the sides of the frog's body.

Rnd 47: Place an arm against the body and, along the inside of the arm, crochet 4 sc together with the arm. This makes something like an armpit. Then work 5 sc along the body, dec. Now crochet in the second arm the same way as the first: 4 sc along the inside, then again along the body: 5 sc, dec (20)
Rnd 48: (along the arm: (2 sc, dec) x 2, 2 sc; along the body: 6 sc) x 2 (28)

This time we crochet along the outside of the arm; the inside will remain inside the work. Crochet this round exactly as written here. Step by step, this round is:

2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 + 6 sc (8 total for arm + body), 2 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 8 sc.

Rnd 49: (dec, 1 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 6 sc) x 2 (22)
Rnd 50: (dec, 1 sc, dec, 6 sc) x 2 (18)
Rnd 51: 18 sc
Stuff the body and shoulders.
Rnd 52: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Insert the cotter pin.
Rnd 53: Decrease to the end, or close the body in any way that is comfortable for you.

If the toy's head will be sewn on, stop at round 51 or 52 and sew the open head to the open neck.

Head

Start by crocheting a chain:

Rnd 1: chain 18 ch
Rnd 2: 16 sc, 3 sc in the last stitch, 15 sc, inc (36)
Rnd 3: inc, 15 sc, inc x 3, 15 sc, inc x 2 (42)
Rnd 4: 1 sc, inc, 15 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 15 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (48)
Rnds 5-6: 48 sc

Important! All increases must run along the side of the head, without shifting. If they drift, you need to add shifting stitches or, the other way around, stop the round a little early. If the shift is very small, crochet as it is; stuffing will even everything out.

Rnd 7: (2 sc, inc), 15 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 3, 15 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 2 (54)
Rnds 8-9: 54 sc
Rnd 10: (3 sc, inc), 15 sc, (3 sc, inc) x 3, 15 sc, (3 sc, inc) x 2 (60)
I wrote out the increases this way on purpose so their placement is visible and clear.
Rnd 11: (27 sc, inc x 3) x 2 (66)
Rnd 12: (27 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3) x 2 (72)
Rnd 13: (3 sc, dec), 21 sc, (dec, 3 sc) x 3, 21 sc, (3 sc, dec) x 2 (66)
Rnd 14: (2 sc, dec), 21 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 3, 21 sc, (2 sc, dec) x 2 (60)
Rnd 15: (1 sc, dec), 21 sc, (dec, 1 sc) x 3, 21 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 2 (54)
Rnd 16: 21 sc, dec x 3, 21 sc, dec x 3 (48)
Rnd 17: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
Rnd 18: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
Rnd 19: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Rnd 20: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Rnd 21: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

Attach the head to the cotter pin if you are using a cotter-pin head joint. Remember that the large disc has an offset center!

Rnd 22: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Rnd 23: dec to the end, or

Close the head in any way that is comfortable for you. Before attaching the head, please look at the photo where the head is shown from the side so you can find the correct position. I would still recommend making something like an insole for the head so it keeps its shape, especially if you are using plush yarn and making a large frog. Make the insert from whatever materials you have on hand. This applies only to a cotter-pin head joint or a jointed attachment.

Eyes (2 Pieces)

Use white yarn of the same thickness as the main yarn.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Rnd 4: inc, 7 sc, inc x 2, 7 sc, inc (22)
Rnd 5: inc, 9 sc, inc x 2, 9 sc, inc (26)
Rnds 6-9: 26 sc
Rnd 10: dec, 9 sc, dec x 2, 9 sc, dec (22)
Rnd 11: dec, 7 sc, dec x 2, 7 sc, dec (18)
Rnd 12: 18 sc

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a tail long enough to embroider the highlight on the pupil.

Eyelid (2 Pieces)

Use green yarn. Crochet in turning rows without joining into a ring.

Row 1: chain 7 ch
Row 2: 5 sc, 3 sc in the last stitch, 5 sc, ch (13)
Row 3: 5 sc, inc x 3, 5 sc, ch (16)
Row 4: 6 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 2, inc, 5 sc, ch (19)
Row 5: 6 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, inc, 6 sc, ch (22)
Row 6: 6 sc, (inc, 3 sc) x 2, inc, 7 sc, ch (25)
Row 7: 7 sc, (inc, 4 sc) x 2, inc, 7 sc, ch (28)
Row 8: 9 sc, dec x 5, 9 sc (23)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a fairly long tail. Sew the eyelid to the white part of the eye through the front loop, using thread of any color; the color is not important here.

Pupil (2 Pieces)

I used dark gray, but you can use any color you like.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR
Rnd 2: inc x 6 (12)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)

Fasten off and cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. Sew it on around the edge after pinning it in place first. Try to place the pupil fairly close to the bottom of the eye, and make sure the eyes are symmetrical. Using white thread, embroider a highlight on the pupil. The highlights should always face the same direction!

The mouth can be embroidered, or you can simply glue on a thread in the color you want. Now sew the finished eye to the head after pinning it in place first. When sewing from the back of the eye, try to catch not only the green part (the eyelid) with the needle, but the white part too; otherwise the eye will wobble.