Soldier

Free Soldier crochet pattern by Svetlana Lyutova @svet_lana_lyutova.

With this pattern, you can crochet a military soldier. You can use any acrylic, cotton, or cotton blend yarn and a suitable crochet hook for this amigurumi. If you like, you can make the toy with a wire frame.

Materials and Tools

• Acrylic yarn: green, skin tone, black, and yellow
• 1.6 mm crochet hook
• Embroidery thread
• Safety eyes
• Fiberfill
• Plastic lid
• Needle for sewing the pieces together
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR — magic ring
• sl st — slip stitch
• sc — single crochet
• dc — double crochet
• inc — increase
• dec — decrease
• (...) x n — repeat n times

Crochet Amigurumi Soldier Pattern

Legs (make 2)

Begin with the boot in black:

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: (inc) x 6 = 12 sc
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sc
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 = 24 sc

Trace the crocheted piece onto the plastic and cut out an insole. I lightly melt the edges of the insole with a flame to smooth the cut edge.

Round 5: 24 sc in BLO
Rounds 6-8: 24 sc (3 rounds)
Round 9: 6 sc, 6 dec, 6 sc = 18 sc
Insert the plastic insole.
Round 10: 6 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc = 15 sc
Rounds 11-13: 15 sc (3 rounds)
Round 14: 15 sc in BLO
Firmly stuff the leg with fiberfill.
Change to green yarn, but do not cut the black yarn; bring it to the outside.
Round 15: 15 sc
Round 16: (4 sc, inc) x 3 = 18 sc
Rounds 17-21: 18 sc (5 rounds)

Crochet the second leg in exactly the same way, but do not cut the yarn because you will continue crocheting the body. Using the uncut black yarn, crochet 15 sc around the top of the boot through the unworked loops of Round 14. Edging the sole: join black yarn to the unworked loops of Round 5 and crochet around the sole with sc or reverse single crochet (crab stitch).

Joining the Legs

Once both legs are complete, place them together with the toes pointing toward you. Mark one stitch on each leg where the legs touch (this should be the center of the thigh).

Continue crocheting sc around the second leg up to the marker. Work 1 sc in the marked stitch, 1 sc in the marked stitch of the first leg, 17 sc around the first leg, then 1 sc into the second leg. Place the marker. This is the new beginning of the round.

Body

Continue crocheting:

Rounds 1-4: 36 sc (4 rounds)
Round 5: 36 sc in BLO
Change to brown yarn.
Round 6: 6 sc, 3 dec, 12 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc = 30 sc
Round 7: 30 sc
Change to green yarn.
Rounds 8-15: 30 sc (8 rounds)
Remember to stuff as you go.
Round 16: (3 sc, dec) x 6 = 24 sc
Round 17: (2 sc, dec) x 6 = 18 sc
Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x 3 = 15 sc
Change to skin-tone yarn.
Round 19: 15 sc in BLO
Rounds 20-22: 15 sc (3 rounds)

Finish with a sl st and leave a long tail for sewing.

Finishing the Tunic

At the back, join green yarn to the unworked loops of Round 5:

Round 1: 36 sc through the unworked loops
Round 2: (11 sc, inc) x 3 = 39 sc
Round 3: 39 sc

Collar

Join green yarn at the center of the neckline through the unworked loops of Round 19.

Row 1: ch 1, (3 sc, inc) x 3, 3 sc, 1 sc in the same unworked loop where you began = 19 sc
Row 2: ch 1, turn, inc, 17 sc, inc = 21 sc
Row 3: ch 1, turn, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 4 sc = 24 sc

Head

Crochet with skin-tone yarn:

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: (inc) x 6 = 12 sc
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sc
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 = 24 sc
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 = 30 sc
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 = 36 sc
Rounds 7-12: 36 sc (6 rounds)
Round 13: (5 sc, inc) x 6 = 42 sc
Rounds 14-16: 42 sc (3 rounds)
Round 17: (5 sc, dec) x 6 = 36 sc
Round 18: (4 sc, dec) x 6 = 30 sc
Round 19: (3 sc, dec) x 6 = 24 sc
Round 20: (2 sc, dec) x 6 = 18 sc
Round 21: (4 sc, dec) x 3 = 15 sc

Finish with a sl st and cut the yarn.

Ears (make 2)

Using skin-tone yarn:

Work 6 sc in MR and pull the ring closed, but do not join.

Arms (make 2)

Begin with skin-tone yarn:

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: (inc) x 6 = 12 sc
Rounds 3-4: 12 sc (2 rounds)
Round 5: 10 sc, 1 puff stitch made with 3 dc in the next stitch, ch 1, 1 sc = 13 sc (the ch 1 counts as one stitch here)
Round 6: 9 sc, 2 dec = 11 sc
Round 7: 3 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc = 9 sc
Change to green yarn.
Round 8: 9 sc
Round 9: in BLO, (2 sc, inc) x 3 = 12 sc
Round 10: 5 sc, inc, 6 sc = 13 sc
Remember to stuff as you go.
Rounds 11-19: 13 sc (9 rounds)
Round 20: make 7 dec

Leave a long tail for sewing and pull the remaining stitches closed.

Tunic Cuff

Join green yarn to the unworked loops of Round 9:

Rounds 1-2: 9 sc (2 rounds)

Helmet

Crochet with green yarn:

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: (inc) x 6 = 12 sc
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 = 18 sc
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 = 24 sc
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 = 30 sc
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 = 36 sc
Round 7: (11 sc, inc) x 3 = 39 sc
Rounds 8-13: 39 sc (6 rounds)
Round 14: (2 sc, inc) x 13 = 52 sc
Round 15: 52 sl st

Shoulder Boards (make 2)

Crochet with green yarn:

Ch 7. Starting in the second chain from the hook, work 5 sc along the chain, ch 1, turn, 5 sc.

If you decide to make the soldier's arms movable, you will need to omit the shoulder boards.

Assembly

• You can glue on ready-made eyes; I attached mine between Rounds 12 and 13 of the head. Alternatively, embroider the eyes if you prefer.
• Nose: make several stitches.
• Sew the ears to the sides of the head, visually level with the eyes.
• Sew the helmet to the head.
• Glue or embroider a star on the helmet.
• Sew the head to the body after inserting a cotton swab or wire into the neck.
• Sew the arms to the body so they do not move. The fingers formed by the puff stitches should point toward you. If you like, you can attach the arms with thread joints. However, you will need to omit the shoulder boards.
• Sew one end of each shoulder board snugly against the collar and the other end directly to the arm. I glued tiny red rhinestones on top of the shoulder boards.
• Embroider the belt buckle with yellow thread.
• If you like, embroider laces on the boots with brown thread.
• Your soldier is ready!