Frosya the Mouse

This free crochet pattern for Frosya the Mouse was designed by Tatiana Zinchuk @zinchuc_t.

With this pattern, you can crochet a mohair mouse. Any mohair yarn will work for this amigurumi project. The designer did not provide a pattern for the dress, so feel free to decorate your mouse however you like.

Materials and tools

• Nako Mohair Delicate yarn (for the mouse)
• Iris yarn (for the nose)
• Yarn (for the clothes)
• 1.5 mm and 1.5 mm crochet hooks
• 10 mm safety eyes
• Doll eyelashes
• Fiberfill
• 1.5 m of wire
• Pins
• Needle for sewing the pieces together
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR – magic ring
• ch – chain stitch
• sc – single crochet
• puff – puff stitch (3 sc worked together into the same stitch)
• inc – increase
• dec – decrease
• (...) x n — repeat n times

Frosya the Mouse amigurumi crochet pattern

Right leg

R1. Ch 5, 3 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, inc = 10 sc (work around both sides of the foundation chain)
R2. Inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, inc = 15 sc
R3. 4 sc, (puff, 1 sc) x 3, 5 sc = 15
To make the toes stand out more, I worked (puff, 1 sc) x 3 through the front loop only. In Round 4, I worked into the remaining back loops.
R4. 15 sc
R5. 4 sc, 3 dec, 5 sc = 12 sc
R6. 12 sc
R7. 7 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 2, inc = 15 sc
R8-10. 15 sc
R11. 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc = 17 sc
R12. 7 sc, sc3tog, 7 sc = 15 sc
R13-14. 15 sc. Insert the wire frame into the leg and stuff with fiberfill.
R15. 3 sc, place an additional marker (for the cotter pin or wire frame), 12 sc = 15 sc
R16. 15 sc
R17. 7 sc, (dec, 1 sc) x 2, dec = 12 sc
R18. (Dec, 2 sc) x 3 = 9 sc
R19. Dec around

Add more stuffing, cinch the opening closed, and hide the yarn tail inside the leg.

Left leg

R1. Ch 5, inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc = 10 sc (work around both sides of the foundation chain)
R2. Inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, inc = 15 sc, work one extra stitch to shift the round
R3. 5 sc, (puff, 1 sc) x 3, 4 sc = 15 sc
To make the toes stand out more, I worked (puff, 1 sc) x 3 through the front loop only. In Round 4, I worked into the remaining back loops.
R4. 15 sc
R5. 5 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc = 12 sc
R6. 12 sc
R7. Inc, (1 sc, inc) x 2, 7 sc = 15 sc
R8-10. 15 sc
R11. 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc = 17 sc
R12. 7 sc, sc3tog, 7 sc = 15 sc
R13-14. 15 sc
Insert the wire frame into the leg and stuff with fiberfill.
R15. 12 sc, place an additional marker (for the cotter pin or wire frame), 3 sc = 15 sc
R16. 15 sc
R17. (Dec, 1 sc) x 2, dec, 7 sc = 12 sc
R18. (Dec, 2 sc) x 3 = 9 sc
R19. Dec around

Add more stuffing, cinch the opening closed, and hide the yarn tail inside the leg.

Arms (make 2)

There is no need to keep the marker aligned.

R1. 6 sc in MR
R2-18. 6 sc

Insert the wire frame in Round 5 or 6 and continue working in the round. Do not leave a yarn tail; the arm will be crocheted directly onto the body.

Tail

Crochet around the wire frame. Insert the frame in Round 5 or 6. Cover the tip of the wire with medical tape so it cannot cause an injury. My wire is 7.5 in (19 cm) long and 1.5 mm in diameter.

R1. 5 sc in MR
R2-11. 5 sc
R12. Inc, 4 sc = 6 sc
R13-21. 6 sc
R22. Inc, 5 sc = 7 sc
R23-28. 7 sc
R29. Inc, 6 sc = 8 sc
R30-37. 8 sc

Body

Keep the marker centered on the belly, working extra stitches as needed to align it. Note the two options for attaching the lower legs in Round 13. I use the second option because it works well for wire-framed legs.

R1. 6 sc in MR
R2. 6 inc = 12 sc
R3. (Inc, 1 sc) x 6 = 18 sc
R4. (Inc, 2 sc) x 6 = 24 sc
R5. (Inc, 3 sc) x 6 = 30 sc
R6. (Inc, 4 sc) x 6 = 36 sc
R7. (Inc, 5 sc) x 6 = 42 sc
R8. 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc = 50 sc
R9-12. 50 sc (4 rounds)
R13. 14 sc, place an additional marker, 22 sc, place an additional marker, 14 sc = 50 sc (the additional markers indicate where to insert the cotter pins or leg frames)
R13. 13 sc, (ch 1, skip 1 stitch), 22 sc, (ch 1, skip 1 stitch), 13 sc = 50 sc (openings for the leg frames)
R14. 8 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 8 sc = 46 sc
R15. 19 sc, dec, work the next 4 sc together with 4 sc of the tail, dec, 19 sc = 44 sc
R16. 18 sc, dec, 4 sc along the tail, dec, 18 sc = 42 sc
R17. 15 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 2 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 15 sc = 38 sc
R18. 38 sc

R19. 10 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 10 sc = 36 sc
R20. 36 sc
R21. 11 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 11 sc = 34 sc
R22. 34 sc
R23. 10 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 10 sc = 32 sc
R24. 10 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 10 sc = 30 sc
R25. 9 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 9 sc = 28 sc
R26. 9 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 9 sc = 26 sc
R27. 8 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 8 sc = 24 sc
R28. 5 sc, work 3 sc together with 3 sc of the arm, dec, 4 sc, dec, work 3 sc together with 3 sc of the other arm, 5 sc = 22 sc
R29. 2 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 2 sc = 20 sc
The arm stitches are included in the round's stitch count.
R30. (3 sc, dec) x 4 = 16 sc
R31. (2 sc, dec) x 4 sc = 12 sc
R32-34. 12 sc

Head

Keep the marker centered at the front of the muzzle:

R1. 6 sc in MR
R2. (1 sc, inc) x 3 = 9 sc
R3. 9 sc
R4. 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc = 12 sc
R5. 12 sc
R6. (Inc, 2 sc) x 4 = 16 sc
R7. 3 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc = 20 sc
R8. 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, inc, 1 sc = 26 sc
R9. 1 sc, inc, 4 sc BLO, inc, 1 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 1 sc, inc, 4 sc BLO, inc, 1 sc = 32 sc
R10. (7 sc, inc) x 4 = 36 sc
R11. (5 sc, inc) x 6 = 42 sc
R12. (6 sc, inc) x 6 = 48 sc
R13. (7 sc, inc) x 6 = 54 sc
R14-18. 54 sc
R19. 26 sc, ch 2, skip 2 sc, 26 sc = 54 sc. Make sure the opening is centered exactly at the bottom of the head. The frame from the body will be inserted through it.
R20-24. 54 sc
R21. (Dec, 7 sc) x 6 = 48 sc
R22. (Dec, 6 sc) x 6 = 42 sc
R23. (Dec, 5 sc) x 6 = 36 sc
R24. (Dec, 4 sc) x 6 = 30 sc
R25. (Dec, 3 sc) x 6 = 24 sc
R26. (Dec, 2 sc) x 6 = 18 sc
R27. (Dec, 1 sc) x 6 = 12 sc
R28. Dec around until closed

Ears (make 2)

R1. 6 sc in MR
R2. 6 inc = 12 sc
R3. (Inc, 1 sc) x 6 = 18 sc
R4. (Inc, 2 sc) x 6 = 24 sc
R5. (Dec, 10 sc) x 2 = 22 sc
R6. (Dec, 9 sc) x 2 = 20 sc
R7. (Dec, 8 sc) x 2 = 18 sc
R8. (Dec, 7 sc) x 2 = 16 sc
R9. 4 dec, 8 sc = 12 sc
R10. Fold the ear so that the ridges meet in the center, then crochet the decreases together with 3 sc. Leave a yarn tail for sewing.

Nose

R1. 6 sc in MR
R2. (Inc, 1 sc) = 9 sc
R3. 9 sc
R4. (Dec, 1 sc) = 6 sc

Leave a longer yarn tail for sewing and sculpting the cheeks. Sew the nose directly above the head's MR, centered on the muzzle, with the yarn tail pointing down. Use the tail to sew it on and define the mouth.

Lower lip

R1. 6 sc in MR, ch 1, turn
R2. 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc = 8 sc

Sew it below the nose, covering the opening left by face-sculpting step No. 1.

Sculpting the face

• Point 1 – MR
• Point 2 – 9 rounds down from Point 1
• Point 3 – in Round 9, the first of the 4 stitches worked BLO on the right
• Point 4 – 3 rounds above Point 3
• Point 5 – directly across from Point 4
• Point 6 – in Round 9, the first of the 4 stitches worked BLO on the left
• Point 7 – the fourth stitch worked BLO on the right
• Point 8 – the fourth stitch worked BLO on the left
• Point 9 – the opening for the frame

No. 1. Make a basic indentation: take the needle from Point 2 to Point 3 with the thread inside the head; from Point 3 to Point 4 with the thread on the outside; from Point 4 to Point 5 with the thread inside; from Point 5 to Point 6 with the thread on the outside; and from Point 6 back to Point 2, emerging one stitch away from where the thread first entered. Pull the thread taut, using your fingers to press in the eye area and shape the bridge of the nose.

No. 2. Take the needle from Point 9 to Point 3, from Point 3 to Point 7, and from Point 7 back to Point 9. Pull the threads taut to create an indentation for the eye. Secure the thread and hide the ends inside the head. Repeat on the other side. Choose the ear placement and sew the ears in place.

Shaping the legs

If the legs are not attached with cotter pins, I recommend shaping them this way. This method works like a thread joint.

Thread a long, strong piece of thread onto a long needle. Gently open a small gap between the stitches on the belly. Insert the needle there and bring it out through the left leg where the leg frame enters. Catch 2 sc on the leg, then insert the needle again at the same spot where the frame enters. Pass the needle through the belly to the right leg. Bring it out where the leg frame enters, catch 2 sc on the leg, then insert the needle again at the same spot where the frame enters.

Finally, bring the needle back out through the same opening on the belly where you started. Pull the thread taut so the legs sit snugly against the body. Secure the thread, trim the ends, and hide them inside the body. This shaping technique keeps the legs movable and stable while giving the toy a neater finish.