Valentine Teddy

Free Valentine Teddy crochet tutorial by Natalya Brutskaya.

With this pattern, you can crochet a teddy. Any yarn works for amigurumi. To create a fluffy effect, use wool yarn.

You can decorate the teddy with a heart, which makes this toy a great gift for a loved one on Valentine's Day.

Materials and Tools

• Alize Angora Real 40 yarn (40% wool, 60% acrylic, 100 g / 480 m)
• 1.25 mm crochet hook
• Safety eyes
• Toy stuffing
• Safety nose
• Heart-shaped button for decoration
• Pastels or eyeshadow for tinting
• Slicker brush or hook-and-loop tape
• Stitch markers
• Needle
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR - magic ring
• ch - chain stitch
• sc - single crochet
• dc - double crochet
• hdc - half double crochet
• inc - increase
• dec - decrease
• (...) x n - repeat n times

Valentine Teddy Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Legs-Body

Start crocheting from the legs. The marker should run strictly along the back of the leg.

Left Leg

9 ch. Start crocheting in the second chain from the hook.

Round 1: 7 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 6 sc on the other side of the chain, inc (18)
Round 2: inc, 6 sc, inc x 3, 6 sc, inc x 2 (24)
Round 3: 1 sc, inc, 6 hdc, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 6 hdc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (30)
Round 4: inc, 4 hdc, 8 dc, dc inc x 3, 8 dc, 4 hdc, inc x 2 (36)
Rounds 5-7: 36 sc (3 rounds)
Round 8: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 9: 30 sc
Round 10: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) + 1 shift stitch
Round 11: 3 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 6, 3 sc (18)

Start stuffing the foot. Do not stuff the toe too firmly, as you will make toe sculpting there.

Now cut a piece of wire (mine is 35 cm), make a loop, insert it into the foot, and add more stuffing around the wire.

Round 12: 3 sc, dec x 6, 3 sc (12)
Rounds 13-17: 12 sc (5 rounds)
Round 18: 10 sc, leave 2 sc unworked, do not finish the round

When joining with the right leg, these two stitches will be the first stitches. Cut the yarn. Stuff.

Right Leg

9 ch. Start crocheting in the second chain from the hook.

Round 1: 7 sc, 3 sc in one stitch, 6 sc on the other side of the chain, inc (18)
Round 2: inc, 6 sc, inc x 3, 6 sc, inc x 2 (24)
Round 3: 1 sc, inc, 6 hdc, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 6 hdc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (30)
Round 4: inc, 4 hdc, 8 dc, dc inc x 3, 8 dc, 4 hdc, inc x 2 (36)
Rounds 5-7: 36 sc (3 rounds)
Round 8: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 9: 30 sc
Round 10: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) + 1 shift stitch
Round 11: 3 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 6, 3 sc (18)

Start stuffing the foot. Do not stuff the toe too firmly, as you will make toe sculpting there. Now cut a piece of wire (mine is 35 cm), make a loop, insert it into the foot, and add more stuffing around the wire.

Round 12: 3 sc, dec x 6, 3 sc (12)
Rounds 13-18: 12 sc (6 rounds), make 2 shift stitches

Stuff. Do not cut the yarn; continue crocheting. Next, you will join the legs together and continue into the body.

Body

Round 19: 3 sc on the right leg, 6 ch, now take the left leg and start from the unworked stitches: 12 sc on the left leg, 6 sc along the ch chain, 9 sc on the right leg
Round 20: 3 sc, 6 sc along the ch chain, 3 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 3, 12 sc, 3 sc on the left leg + 6 sc along the ch chain + 3 sc on the right leg (12), (1 sc, inc) x 3 (42)

After round 20, the yarn should be centered at the back of the right leg. About the wire: twist the two leg wires together, but only for the length of the body plus neck. In the head, the two wires should stay separate.

Rounds 21-22: 42 sc (2 rounds)
Round 23: 4 sc, inc x 6, (inc for the butt), 12 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 6, (inc for the tummy), 8 sc (54)
Rounds 24-26: 54 sc (3 rounds)
Round 27: (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)
Round 28: 60 sc
Round 29: 5 sc, inc, (9 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (66)
Rounds 30-37: 66 sc (8 rounds)
Round 38: 40 sc, (dec, 1 sc) x 6, 8 sc (60), decreases in the middle of the tummy
Round 39: 60 sc
Round 40: 35 sc, (dec, 1 sc) x 6, 7 sc (54), decreases in the middle of the tummy
Rounds 41-43: 54 sc (3 rounds)
Round 44: (3 sc, dec) x 6, 24 sc (48)

Start stuffing the body, and continue stuffing as you crochet.

Rounds 45-46: 48 sc
Round 47: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
Round 48: 42 sc
Round 49: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
Round 50: 36 sc
Round 51: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
Round 52: 30 sc
Round 53: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 54: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Round 55: 18 sc, stuff to the end

Neck

Round 56: dec x 9 (9)
Rounds 57-58: 9 sc (2 rounds)

Move on to the head.

Head

Round 59: inc x 9 (18)
Round 60: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 61: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 62: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
Round 63: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
Round 64: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48)
Round 65: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
Round 66: (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)
Round 67: (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)
Round 68: (10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)
Round 69: (11 sc, inc) x 6 (78)
Round 70: (12 sc, inc) x 6 (84)
Rounds 71-78: 84 sc (8 rounds)

Make a wire support structure like in the photo for head stability. The teddy has a large head on a thin neck. This also helps the head bend sideways. From this point, start stuffing the head gradually and carefully. The wire should not touch the outer surface of the head; it should stay inside with stuffing all around it.

It is better to stuff with small pieces so you can fill the entire head evenly.

Round 79: 6 sc, dec, (12 sc, dec) x 5, 6 sc (78)
Round 80: 78 sc
Round 81: (11 sc, dec) x 6 (72)
Round 82: 72 sc
Round 83: 5 sc, dec, (10 sc, dec) x 5, 5 sc (66)
Round 84: 66 sc
Round 85: (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)
Round 86: 60 sc
Round 87: 4 sc, dec, (8 sc, dec) x 5, 4 sc (54)
Round 88: 54 sc
Round 89: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
Round 90: 48 sc
Round 91: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec) x 5, 3 sc (42)
Round 92: 42 sc
Round 93: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
Round 94: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)
Round 95: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Round 96: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec) x 5, 1 sc (18)
Round 97: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Round 98: dec x 6

Arms (2 pieces)

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Rounds 5-8: 24 sc (4 rounds)
Round 9: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
Rounds 10-11: 18 sc (2 rounds)
Round 12: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
Stuff the palm lightly so you can sculpt the fingers later.
Rounds 13-30: 12 sc (18 rounds)

Now cut a piece of wire so it extends 1.5-2 cm beyond the arm. Insert the wire only after you sculpt the fingers. Flatten the palm and make two embroidered finger stitches with slight tension. Stuff the arm lightly.

Muzzle

With contrasting yarn. 3 ch. Work in turning rows, making 1 ch at the end of each row. Start in the second chain from the hook:

Round 1: inc x 2 (4), ch, turn
Round 2: inc, 2 sc, inc (6), ch, turn
Round 3: inc, 4 sc, inc (8), ch, turn
Round 4: inc, 6 sc, inc (10), ch, turn
Round 5: inc, 8 sc, inc (12), ch, turn
Round 6: inc, 10 sc, inc (14), ch, turn
Rounds 7-16: 14 sc (10 rounds), ch, turn
Round 17: dec, 10 sc, dec (12), ch, turn
Round 18: dec, 8 sc, dec (10), ch, turn
Round 19: dec, 6 sc, dec (8), ch, turn
Round 20: dec, 4 sc, dec (6), ch, turn
Round 21: dec, 2 sc, dec (4), ch, turn
Round 22: dec x 2 (2), without turning, crochet around the whole muzzle perimeter with 2 rounds of sc

Ears (2 pieces)

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Rounds 6-9: 30 sc (4 rounds)

Fold the ear in half and crochet 15 sc through both layers along the bottom edge.

Inner Ear (2 pieces)

With contrasting yarn. 9 ch. Work in turning rows, making 1 ch at the end of each row. Start in the second chain from the hook.

Rounds 1-3: 8 sc, (3 rounds), ch, turn
Round 4: dec, 4 sc, dec (6), ch, turn
Round 5: dec, 2 sc, dec (4), fasten off

Sew the inner ear neatly into the main ear. You can also cut the inner ear from fabric.

Tummy Patch

With contrasting yarn.

Round 1: 6 sc in MR
Round 2: inc x 6 (12)
Round 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
Round 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
Round 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
Round 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)

Fasten off.

Assembly

Before assembly, brush all parts. You can use hook-and-loop tape or a slicker brush. Brush very carefully so you do not deform the pieces. You can place colored pins in the center of the tummy and head to help keep everything symmetrical while assembling the teddy. You can also sew on the tummy patch first, which helps find the center of the figure.

Sew on the muzzle, adding a little stuffing as you go, but not too much, so the muzzle does not protrude sharply and only sticks out slightly. It should sit lower on the head, not in the center, around round 65 (or 6 rounds up from the neck) and above.

Sew on the ears. The teddy's head is not perfectly round, and you can see side areas for ear placement.

Make slight eye sculpting. Insert the needle from the back of the head near the neck and bring it out at the first eye, tighten slightly, go back, then bring it from the neck to the second eye and back to the neck. Tighten slightly and secure the thread. Since the eyes are very close together, you can also make one stitch across the whole eye area and tighten lightly. Do not over-tighten, or the eyes may look sunken. This gives an even eye depth.

Choose the nose and eyes to your taste. It is better if the nose is not too small; mine is 2.5 cm long. If you do not have a suitable nose size,

you can easily make one from polymer clay or felt one, or find a button and cover it with fabric. There are many options.

Place the eyes directly above the muzzle and very close to each other. Insert the arms with protruding wire into the body at the sides around rounds 49-50, and sew them in place. Make sure the arms are symmetrical.

Sew the tummy patch onto the most protruding part of the belly, adding a tiny bit of stuffing.

Embroider the smile and eyebrows. Embroider the smile with one strand so it stays subtle, but use two strands for the eyebrows. Also embroider the fingers and toes.

You can lightly tint the teddy: cheeks and brows. Cut several strands from the main yarn and attach them to the crown of the head (where you closed the final stitches), like fringe. Trim to the desired length and fluff it up. This will be the forelock. You can also make the teddy with a felted muzzle and felted nose. Make the eyes from polymer clay. Sew on patches.

The teddy is ready. Decorate it however you like.