Peach Cat

A free crochet tutorial for Peach Cat by @plushtoys.handmade.

Using this pattern, you can crochet a plush Peach Cat. Any plush yarn will work well for this amigurumi project: Himalaya Dolphin Baby or YarnArt Dolce. Yarn usage: 1 skein of Himalaya Dolphin Baby or 1.5 skeins of YarnArt Dolce.

The finished toy measures about 25 cm.

Materials and tools

• Plush yarn in any color
• 4 mm crochet hook
• 14-18 mm safety eyes
• 12x15 mm safety nose
• Toy stuffing
• Thread for attaching parts: nylon thread or dental floss
• Sewing pins
• Needle for sewing the parts together
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR - magic ring
• ch - chain stitch
• sc - single crochet
• inc - increase
• dec - decrease
• (...) x n - repeat n times

Peach Cat amigurumi crochet pattern

Arms (make 2)

Crochet a chain of 2.

1. 6 sc in the second chain from hook
2. inc x 6 (12)
3. 4 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc (16)
4. 6 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc (14)
5. 5 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc (12)
6. 5 sc, dec, 5 sc (11)
Stuff only the bottom part of the paw
7-13. 11 sc for 7 rounds. Crochet 4 more sc
8-11. 15 sc for 4 rounds

Crochet both sides together with 5 sc.

Tail

1. 6 sc in the second chain from hook
2. (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
3-13. 9 sc for 11 rounds

Do not stuff. Fold and crochet together.

Legs (make 2)

1. 7 sc in the second chain from hook
2. inc x 7 (14)
3. (1 sc, inc) x 7 (21)
4. (6 sc, inc) x 3 (24)
5. 24 sc
6. (4 sc, dec) x 4 (20)
7. (2 sc, dec) x 5 (15)
8-11. 15 sc for 4 rounds

Sl st. Cut the yarn. Crochet the second leg the same way, but do not cut the yarn.

Body

You now have the first leg with the yarn cut and the second leg with the yarn still attached. From the second leg, crochet a chain of 3 sc and mark the end of the round with a stitch marker.

0-1. Chain 4, then join the first leg: crochet 15 sc around it. Then work along the first side of the chain: sl st, 2 inc, sl st; then again 15 sc around the second leg until you reach the marker. Along the second side of the chain: sl st, 2 inc, sl st, then crochet the remaining sc to the end of the round (to the marker) (42)
2. 14 sc, inc, 18 sc, inc, 8 sc (44)
3. Crochet in the tail. Make sure it sits centered above the chain: 1 sc, 4 stitches together through the tail and body, 14 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 13 sc (46)
4-7. 46 sc for 4 rounds.
Stuff the lower part of the toy, filling the legs firmly
8. (6 sc, dec) x 6 (40)
9. 40 sc
10. (6 sc, dec) x 5 (35)
11. 35 sc
12. (5 sc, dec) x 5 (30)

Stuff the tummy, but not too tightly.

13. (4 sc, dec) x 5 (25)
14. (3 sc, dec) x 5 (20)
15. Crochet in the arms (20)
16. (2 sc, dec) x 5 (15)
17. (1 sc, dec) x 5 (10)

Stuff the neck firmly.

Head

1. 7 sc in the second chain from hook
2. inc x 7 (14)
3. (1 sc, inc) x 7 (21)
4. (2 sc, inc) x 7 (28)
5. (3 sc, inc) x 7 (35)
6. (4 sc, inc) x 7 (42)
7. (5 sc, inc) x 7 (49)
8. 49 sc
9. 49 sc. The nose will go in this round: mark 27 sc around it. To make it easier to insert safety hardware, crochet a couple more rounds
10-13. 49 sc for 4 rounds

Place the face toward you. Insert the nose in round 9 between stitches 27 and 28. Move up 2 rounds to round 11 and place the eyes 8 sc apart.

14. (5 sc, dec) x 7 (42).
15. 42 sc.
Start stuffing the piece: stuff the cheeks firmly, but the head should stay soft.
16. (4 sc, dec) x 7 (35).
17. (3 sc, dec) x 7 (28).
18. (2 sc, dec) x 7 (21).
19. (1 sc, dec) x 7 (14).
20. dec x 7 (7) - pull tight. Finish stuffing.

Ears (make 2)

1. 7 sc in a ring. Do not tighten too much so it forms a triangle
2. Turn the work. 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 stitch (top point), 3 sc
3. Ch, turn the work, inc, 4 sc, 3 sc in 1, 3 sc, inc
4. Crochet around the bottom edge, 7 sc (to avoid a large hole from the ring, catch a couple of stitches from below)

Sculpting the muzzle

Cut a thread about 50 cm long. If using dental floss, fold it in half; nylon thread, fold it in 3 strands; if using YarnArt Jeans, use 1 strand. Jeans may break if pulled too hard. I do everything with one thread.

Place the muzzle facing you. Put your thumbs on round 2, where the 7 increases were made, closer to the back of the head, and place your index fingers on the eyes.

Press these points inward and secure them with thread. Change the pressure points until you find the shaping you like best.

Eyes

Insert at point 1 in the round of increases (where you pressed with your thumbs) and leave a thread tail about 15 cm long. Bring the needle out at point 2 on the side below the first eye. Insert at point 3 below the eye on the other side (that is, 3 sc away). Bring it back out at point 1. Press inward with your finger and slowly tighten the thread, securing it with knots.

Repeat the same process once more for the right eye (points 4 and 5), only wider this time (not across 3 sc, but across 5 sc). If the thread is long enough, you can keep going with the same strand.

Cheeks

Insert the needle as close as possible under the tip of the nose at point 6 and bring it out at point 1, then tighten. Repeat once more.

Nose

Insert at point 1 and bring the needle out at point 2 just above the nose on the right side. Insert at point 3 to the left above the nose on the other side (across 3 sc) and bring it back out at point 1. Press inward, pull tight, and tie a knot.

If you want deeper-set eyes, make additional parallel sculpting pulls.

Right eye: bring the needle out at point 4 on one side below the eye, insert at point 5 on the same side above the eye, bring it out at point 1, and tighten with knots.

Do the same on the other side: insert at point 6 below, insert at point 7 above, bring it out at point 1, and tighten with knots.

Embroider the whiskers; I used half a strand of YarnArt Jeans because a full strand is too thick.

Add eyebrows if you like.

Sew on the head

Because of the muzzle sculpting, there is a hollow under the head, so the neck fits into it.

Thread knitting needles through the head and body so the head will not shift while sewing. Start sewing under the nose. Sew through the full stitch of round 16. When half of the back is sewn, remove the needles, relax the head, and finish sewing.

Sew on the ears

Sew the ears to the head.