Sloth

Free Sloth tutorial by Marina Bulankina marinao.ru.

With this pattern, you can make a sloth using crochet and knitting. The body is knitted with fluffy long-pile yarn, while the muzzle and claws are crocheted with cotton blend yarn. Any eyelash/grass-type yarn will work for this amigurumi.

Experience with fluffy yarn is required.

Finished toy size is about 45 cm.

Materials and Tools

• Swan's down yarn yarn (2 skeins)
• 1.75 mm crochet hook
• 2.5 mm knitting needles
• Safety eyes
• Synthetic poly filling
• Wire
• Glue
• Needle for sewing parts
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR - magic ring
• ch - chain stitch
• sc - single crochet
• dc - double crochet
• p - purl stitch
• inc - increase
• dec - decrease
• (...) x n times - repeat n times

Sloth Amigurumi Crochet and Knitting Pattern

Head

Start with pink yarn.

Round 1: 6 stitches in MR
Round 2: inc (12)
Round 3: 1 sc, inc (18)
Round 4: 2 sc, inc (24)
Round 5: 3 sc, inc (30)

Change yarn to beige.

Round 6: 4 sc, inc (36)
Rounds 7-9: 36 sc (36)
Round 10: 6 inc, (5 sc, inc) x 5 (47)
Round 11: (sc, inc) x 6, (6 sc, inc) x 5 (58)
Round 12: (2 sc, inc) x 6, (7 sc, inc) x 5 (69)
Round 13: 24 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5 (74)
Round 14: 24 sc, inc, (9 sc, inc) x 5 (79)
Round 15: 5 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 60 sc (77)
Round 16: 4 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 59 sc (75)
Round 17: 3 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 58 sc (73)
Round 18: 2 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 57 sc (71)
Round 19: sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 56 sc (69)
Round 20: dec, 10 sc, dec, 55 sc (67)
Round 21: 13 inc, 55 sc (80)
Rounds 22-23: 80 sc (80)
Change yarn to Lebyazhiy Pukh and continue with knitting needles.
Round 24: pick up 80 stitches from the previous round.
Rounds 25-46: turn the work and continue in purl stitch (80)

Next, make decreases in each right-side row.

Row 47: 6 p, dec (70)
Row 49: 5 p, dec (60)
Row 51: 4 p, dec (50)
Row 53: 3 p, dec (40)
Row 55: 2 p, dec (30)
Row 57: p, dec (20)
Row 59: dec (10)
Row 61: dec (5)

Bind off the remaining stitches.

Body

Knit the body shell with purl stitches.

Row 1: cast on 10 stitches
Row 2: and all even rows: knit without changes
Row 3: inc (20)
Row 5: p, inc (30)
Row 7: 2 p, inc (40)
Row 9: 3 p, inc (50)
Row 11: 4 p, inc (60)
Row 13: 5 p, inc (70)
Row 15: 6 p, inc (80)
Row 17: 7 p, inc (90)
Row 19: 8 p, inc (100)
Rows 20-40: 100 p (100)
Row 41: 9 p, inc (110)
Row 43: 10 p, inc (120)
Rows 44-58: 120 p (120)
Row 59: 10 p, dec (110)
Row 61: 9 p, dec (100)
Row 63: 8 p, dec (90)
Row 65: 7 p, dec (80)
Row 67: 6 p, dec (70)
Row 69: 5 p, dec (60)
Row 71: 4 p, dec (50)
Row 73: 3 p, dec (40)
Row 75: 2 p, dec (30)
Row 77: p, dec (20)
Row 79: dec (10)
Row 81: dec (5)

Bind off the remaining stitches.

Arms and Legs

For the arms, cast on 20 stitches and knit 60 rows in purl stitch. Bind off. For the legs, cast on 30 stitches and knit 50 rows in purl stitch. Bind off. Leave a long tail for sewing side seams and attaching arms and legs to the body.

Claws (8 pieces)

Round 1: 6 stitches in MR
Round 2: 1 sc, inc (9)
Round 4: 2 sc, inc (12)
Rounds 5-19: 12 sc (12)

Finish off. When you crochet the second claw, do not cut the yarn. Attach every second claw to the first one. Put them together and crochet 4 sc, inserting the hook through both edges at once. You will get 4 pairs of double claws. Twist wire and insert it into the claws, fill with stuffing, and sew the edge closed. Bend the claws slightly so they look neater.

Joining Parts

Sew arm and leg pieces into tubes and lightly stuff them. Sew claws to the arms and legs. Do not sew the upper edges of arms and legs closed. Sew the body along the side seam, leaving an opening at the neck for stuffing and frame insertion. Stuff moderately. Sew on the arms and legs, taking claw bend direction into account. Sew the head along the side seam, leaving a neck opening. Stuff the head firmly so it keeps its shape.

Eyelids

Row 1: with brown yarn, crochet 25 ch
Row 2: 2 ch for turning, 3 sc, 9 dc, 3 sc in 1 stitch, 9 dc, 3 sc

Nose

Row 1: 6 stitches in MR
Row 2: inc (12)
Row 3: 1 sc, inc (18)
Row 4: 2 sc, inc (24)

Fold 2 pleats inward to form nostrils. Place the nose on the bridge (raised part), sew the lower edge, lightly stuff the nose, and sew it fully in place. You can make a slight sculpting pull along the bridge by inserting the needle into the nose wings on the right and left.

Toy Assembly

Push the mouth inward. Make a tightening stitch. Insert the needle with yarn in the center of the mouth. Bring it out at the top of the head and, one row over, return back. Tighten so a mouth opening forms. Tie off and hide the ends inside the head.

Glue (or sew) the eyes, applying glue only to the center of each eye. Pin the eyelids, tucking them under the edge of the eyes. The facial expression depends on eyelid corner placement. Sew eyelids along the edge only. This helps make lashes and partially cover the eyes so the toy does not look too wide-eyed. Attach brown threads along the eyelid edge like fringe, trim the lashes. To keep lashes from untying, add a small drop of glue to each knot.

For a neck frame, the author used isolon rolled into a tube and wrapped with thread. You can use any dense material that prevents the head from wobbling. Insert the frame into the neck and add stuffing if needed. Sew the head to the body. The toy is ready and can delight not only children.