Little Pumpkin Boo

Free crochet tutorial for Little Pumpkin Boo by Svetlana Borodina @so.ta.toy.

With this pattern, you can crochet a doll shaped like a pumpkin in a hat. Any cotton blend yarn works for this toy. This amigurumi pumpkin character makes great Halloween decor. The tutorial also includes a crochet bat pattern.

Finished toy size is about 26-27 cm (without hat) and 35-37 cm (with hat).

Materials and Tools

• YarnArt Jeans yarn (color No. 1) 23-coral
• YarnArt Jeans yarn (color No. 2) 40-light brown
• YarnArt Jeans yarn (color No. 3) 73-tea rose
• YarnArt Jeans yarn (color No. 4) 29-light green
• YarnArt Jeans yarn (color No. 5) 72-lilac
• YarnArt Jeans yarn (color No. 6) 59-neon pink
• 2.5 mm crochet hook
• Thin yarn in black, white, and yellow
• 8 mm safety eyes
• Toy stuffing
• 20 mm wooden beads
• Stitch markers
• Needle
• Scissors

Abbreviations

• MR - magic ring
• offset st - offset stitch
• ch - chain stitch
• sl st - slip stitch
• sc - single crochet
• dc - double crochet
• inc - increase
• dec - decrease
• (...) x n - repeat n times

Little Pumpkin Boo Amigurumi Crochet Pattern

Pumpkin Base

Use a 2.5 mm hook. Yarn No. 1:

1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
3. 1 sc, 3 inc, (2 sc, 3 inc) x 5, 1 sc (30)
4. 2 sc, 3 inc, (4 sc, 3 inc) x 5, 2 sc (42)
5. 3 sc, 3 inc, (6 sc, 3 inc) x 5, 3 sc (54)
6. 4 sc, 3 inc, (8 sc, 3 inc) x 5, 4 sc (66)
7. 5 sc, 3 inc, (10 sc, 3 inc) x 5, 5 sc (78)
8-9. (78)
10. 6 sc, 3 inc, (12 sc, 3 inc) x 5, 6 sc (90)
11. (90)
12. 7 sc, inc, (14 sc, inc) x 5, 7 sc (96)
13. 8 sc, inc, (15 sc, inc) x 5, 7 sc (102)
14-27. (102) (14 rounds)

In these rounds, insert safety eyes if you use them. I did it like this: in round 21 crochet 37 sc, 1 ch, 10 sc, 1 ch, 53 sc (102)

After this round, the beginning of the round shifts to the side. Then continue following the chart, and when you reach round 27, you can insert the eyes.

28. (15 sc, dec) x 6 (96)
29-30. (96)
31. (14 sc, dec) x 6 (90)
32. (90)
33. (13 sc, dec) x 6 (84)
34. (12 sc, dec) 6 (78)
35. (11 sc, dec) 6 (72)
36. (10 sc, dec) x 6 (66)
37. (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60)
38. (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)
39. (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)
40. (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)
41. (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)
42. (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
43. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Stuff the piece firmly, but do not overstuff.
Then continue crocheting according to the chart.
44. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
45. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
46. 6 dec (6)

Pull the opening closed with yarn, make a center indentation in the pumpkin, then secure and hide the yarn tail and trim excess.

Sculpting Grooves

Between rounds 2 and 3, join yarn with sl st and make 27 ch (your stitch count may be different, because it depends on your crochet tension), then secure the yarn near the bottom of the pumpkin; do the same between rounds 44 and 45 using sl st.

Make neat transitions along the round where you join yarn, also with sl st (for me this is 2 sl st), and along the top round I also move the groove start with several sl st.

Repeat this five more times.

Eye Sculpting

Make the eye sculpting through the top of the pumpkin. This spot will later be covered by the pumpkin stem. Insert the needle through the top of the pumpkin between rounds 3 and 2 from the beginning and bring it out near the eye where points 1 and 2 are marked, then insert the needle back into the places marked 3 and 4, and bring the yarn out again through the top of the pumpkin between round 2 and MR. Make the sculpting pull itself. This place will then be covered by the stem and will not be visible. Secure the yarn, hide it, and trim excess.

Stem

Start crocheting with yarn No. 4:

1. 6 sc in MR
2. 6 sc in back loop only
3-7. (6) (5 rounds)
8. (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)
9. (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)
10. (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12)
11. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
12. 3 sc in each loop of the previous round (54)

Then crochet the last stitch as sl st, secure the yarn, and leave 15-20 cm for sewing the part. Work into the remaining front loops and sew the stem to the pumpkin.

Also crochet a circle of 6 sc in MR and leave a tail for sewing. I use this circle for sewing onto the "bottom" of the pumpkin. This way we cover the place where we made the groove bridges and make this area neat.

Boots and Legs

Start crocheting with yarn No. 2:

1. 5 sc in MR
2. inc, 4 sc (6)
3. (6)
4. inc, 5 sc (7)
5. inc, 6 sc (8)
6. inc, 7 sc (9)
7. inc, 8 sc (10)
8. (inc, 4 sc) x 2 (12)
9. (inc, 5 sc) x 2 (14)
10. (inc, 6 sc) x 2 (16)
11. (inc, 7 sc) x 2 (18)
12. (18)
13. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
14-16. (24) (3 rounds)
17. (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
18-20. (30) (3 rounds)
21. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
22. (24)

Then make 3 offset stitches (offset st), so the beginning of the next round starts on the side (turn the work), and crochet in turning rows:

23. 12 sc
24. ch, 12 sc (turn the work)
25. ch, 12 sc (turn the work)
26. ch, 12 sc (turn the work)
27. ch, 12 sc (turn the work)

After that, begin decreases by skipping the first sc from the hook in the previous row and the second-to-last one, so the heel looks neat. (If it is easier for you to make decreases the usual way, do this: (dec, .... sc, dec), and do the same in all decrease rows as shown in the chart.)

Continue with turning rows:

28. ch, skip 1 sc, 9 sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc (turn the work) (10)
29. ch, skip 1 sc, 7 sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc (turn the work) (8)
30. ch, skip 1 sc, 5 sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc (turn the work) (6)
31. ch, skip 1 sc, 3 sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc (turn the work) (4)
32. ch, skip 1 sc, 1 sc, skip 1 sc, 1 sc (turn the work) (2)

Now begin edging the formed heel:

33. ch and work 10 sc around the heel, then crochet 14 sc along the main part of the piece; these 14 sc are made because we work 1 sc in the corner stitches on both sides of the heel, continue edging the other side of the heel with 10 more sc, then crochet 2 more sc (the last sc of this round is worked into the turning ch made at the start of the round) (36)
34. Mark the first sc of this round with a marker, then crochet 36 sc according to the chart (36)
35. 9 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec (33)
36. (9 sc, dec) x 3 (30)
37. (30)
38. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
39-40. (24)
41. Crochet this round in front loops only (24)
42. (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)

Stuff the boot part and secure and cut the yarn. Then change to yarn No. 4 and crochet socks:

43. Join yarn in the remaining loops of round 41 and crochet 24 sc. (24)
44-47. (24) (4 rounds)
48. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
49. In this round, work in front loops only: make 3 ch and join those 3 ch into each loop with sl st.

Secure the yarn and trim excess. Then change to yarn No. 3 and crochet:

50. (18)
51-60. (18) (10 rounds)
61. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
62. (12) (Lightly stuff this part of the leg)
63. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
64. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
65-66. (24)

Place a wooden bead inside the resulting "cup" so the knee keeps its shape. (You can also skip this and just stuff this part with filling.) Then crochet around the bead, leaving it inside the knee.

67. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
68. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
69. (12)
70. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
71-80. (18) (10 rounds)

Then crochet 4 offset stitches (you may need a different number of stitches because your tension can be different. But the beginning of the round should be on the side of the part), then change to the main color yarn (yarn No. 1) and crochet:

81-83. (18)
84. (18) (work this round in back loop only)
85. Lightly stuff the part, fold it in half, and crochet through both sides 9 sc (9)

Secure the yarn and leave 15-20 cm for sewing. Then crochet the ruffle: join yarn to the remaining loops, make 2 ch, and in the same loop crochet one more dc, then crochet 2 dc in each loop (36). Secure and hide the yarn. You can also fix the tip of the boot by slightly twisting it and sewing it to the main part.

Gloves + Arms

Take yarn No. 4 and start with the fingers.

1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3-4. (12)
5. (2 sc, dec) x 3 (9)
6-7. (9)

Crochet three fingers. For each one, secure the yarn and leave a little tail for sewing the holes between fingers. For the 4th finger, do not cut the yarn and continue crocheting.

8. 4 sc on finger 1, 4 sc on finger 2, 9 sc on finger 3, then crochet 5 sc on finger 2 and 5 sc on finger 1 (27)
9-11. (27) (3 rounds)

Close the holes between fingers after round 9, secure and trim yarn tails. Stuff each finger. In round 12 we crochet the fingers for the left and right arms differently.

Left Arm

12. 1 sc, 4 sc (crochet together with the finger), 22 sc (27)
13. 2 sc, 7 sc (on the finger), (these 7 sc are made because I crochet 1 sc along finger edges so holes do not form), then crochet 22 sc more (31)
14. (dec, 29 sc) (30) stuff the finger

Right Arm

12. 8 sc, 4 sc (crochet together with the finger), 15 sc (27)
13. 9 sc, 7 sc (on the finger, same as left arm), 15 sc (31)
14. dec, 29 sc (30) stuff the finger
15. (30)
16. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
17. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
18. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
19. (12) change yarn color to No. 3 in this round.
20. Work this round in back loop only (12)
21-36. (12) (16 rounds)

Then make offset stitches; for me there are 4. This is done so the round start is on the side, then change yarn color to No. 1. But before changing yarn, leave a long tail so you can later crochet the glove edging: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18), after finishing the arm.

37-39. (12)
In round 39 make 1 more offset stitch if needed.
40. 12 sc in back loop only (12)
41. Lightly stuff the part, fold it in half, and crochet through both sides 6 sc (6)

Secure the yarn and leave 15-20 cm for sewing. Then take yarn, join in the front loop of round 40, make 2 ch and crochet 1 dc in the same loop, then crochet 2 dc in each loop (24). Secure and hide the remaining yarn.

Hat

Start crocheting with yarn No. 5.

1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2-12. 6 sc (6) (11 rounds)
13. (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)
14. 9 sc in back loop only (9)
15. (2 sc, inc) x 3 (12)
16. 12 sc in back loop only (12)
17. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
18-19. (18)
20. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
21-22. (24)
23. (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
24. 5 sc, 10 sc in back loops, 15 sc (30)
25. 5 sc, 10 sc in front loops of previous round, 15 sc (30)
26. (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36)
27. (36)
28. (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42)
29. 4 sc, 16 sc in back loops, 22 sc (42)
30. 4 sc, 16 sc in front loops of previous round, 22 sc (42)
31. 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48)
32. (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)
33. 4 sc, inc, (8 sc, inc) x 5, 4 sc (60)
34. (60) Change yarn to No. 6
35. 60 sl st
36. 60 sc (in back loop of the round made with slip stitches) (60)
37-38. (60) In round 38 change yarn to No. 5
39. 60 sl st
40. (9 sc, inc) x 6 (in back loop of the round made with sl st) (66)
41. (1 sc, inc) x 33 (99)
42-43. (99) Crochet the last stitch of the round as sl st, then finish, secure and hide yarn, and trim excess.

Sew the hat tip as well, twisting it slightly. Also embroider a buckle on the black stripe with yellow yarn, hide yarn ends, and to keep them from unraveling, fix the buckle slightly with glue from the inside.

Toy Finishing

After crocheting all parts of the toy, move on to finishing. Take sewing pins and mark where the toy's mouth will be.

I do it like this: where the groove bridges are on both sides of the eyes, I step back by 1 sc from them; this is approximate and yours may differ slightly. Then from the lower edge of the eye I step back 6 sc, and this gives us the two outer mouth points.

Then I count the total number of stitches between the marked points and divide it in half to place one more sewing pin in the middle. (For me it is 16 sc total, so half is 8 sc, and I mark one more point.) Next we need two more points, so you will have five mouth points total; going one round lower, I divide those 8 sc in half again and in the middle, that is in the 4th sc from the edge, I place two more points.

Then take thin black yarn and start shaping the mouth. Insert the needle into any outer point (the points marked first), and sort of wrap the yarn around the sewing pins. After passing through all five marked points, insert the needle into the nearest lower point, make a yarn-over around the existing yarn, insert the needle back into the same point you came out from, and tighten the resulting loop inside the piece. Repeat two more times, then secure, hide, and trim the yarn.

Then take thin white yarn and embroider two little teeth in the lower part of the mouth.

Next embroider the eyes and brows. I embroider the eyes like this: At the top of the eye, I lay a yarn in the same color as the base part so the thread does not slip anywhere. You can secure it with a small loop in the center, or put a little glue on the needle, coat the thread with it, and fix it.

I do the lower eyelid the same way with white yarn. This makes the eyes look more lively. Then embroider the eyebrows; you can place them as you like. Then I crochet cheeks with yarn No. 3: 6 sc in MR, leaving a tail for sewing. I place the cheeks behind the groove bridges from the pumpkin face and sew them on.

Then sew on the legs and arms. Take the legs, pin them in place between the first and second groove bridges from the toy's face, and sew them one by one to the "bottom" of the main piece.

Then sew the arms. I sew them about 4-5 rounds above the leg edge, and 1 sc away from the second groove bridge from the face. First I fix them with pins, check symmetry of left and right arms, then sew.

And here you can either sew it permanently or leave it removable. Your toy is ready!!!

Amigurumi Crochet Bat

Base

Crochet with yarn No. 6:

1. 6 sc in MR (6)
2. 6 inc (12)
3. (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
4. (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24)
5. (24)
6. (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30)
7. 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36)
8-14. (36) (7 rounds)

Insert safety eyes (if you use them) between rounds 8-9, spaced by 6 sc. My eye size is 8 mm.

15. 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec) x 5, 2 sc (30)
16. (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
17. (24) Stuff the piece.
18. (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
19. (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
20. 6 dec (6)

Pull the opening closed, secure the yarn, and hide it.

Ears (2 pieces)

Crochet 2 ear pieces using chart No. 1. Leave a 15-20 cm tail for sewing.

Wings (2 pieces)

Also crochet two wings using chart No. 2.

But when you begin edging the piece after round 13, edge one wing immediately after it and leave a tail for sewing. For the second wing, after round 12 turn the work, crochet the edging and sc, and only then crochet round 13 with sl st.

Then sew all parts together. Finish the face as you like. Your bat is ready!!!